While it might be tough for non-natives to tell the difference between, say, Ethiopian and Eritrean food, or Burmese and Tibetan, to the people who come from the regions in question, the differences are as stark as those between a New York thin and a Chicago deep-dish. To see two such cuisines set off against each other, one must normally visit two restaurants—unless you find yourself in the vicinity of Sa Bai Dee, where Thai and Laotian food share space. The welcoming staff at this newcomer to an ever-more- interesting ethnic-food neighborhood will guide you through the expansive (not expensive) menu and, if you're squeamish, away from dishes that feature pork entrails or blood cubes. If you go as a pair, share the fried tofu with peanuts and chili sauce, pork rib noodle soup, and a fiery papaya salad with salted crab—all of which, collectively, will set you back less than $20. Bring a few cold beers to ease the pain.