When the waiter—South Philly slick, with a smooth Italian accent—arrives tableside to rattle off the specials at Ristorante Pesto, close your menu. It will take all your concentration to remember, and choose between, the options. Among the most popular of the recited choices: the crabmeat-and-mozzarella-stuffed portabella mushrooms. From the awninged outside, the restaurant looks like any carbs-and-red sauce joint south of the Italian Market. But inside, Pesto’s minimalist dining room is designed to spotlight the food: pizzas from the wood-fired oven; a whole branzino or Dover sole, filleted table-side by a friendly, if slightly clumsy, waiter; and sweet-tart limoncello sorbet, served in a chilled champagne glass.
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