The windows are beaded with moisture, and the clear glass globes and siphons on the counter burble and steam like a hypnotic chemistry experiment. These are connoisseur’s cups, and the best part is the presentation, unique miniature still-lifes of sugar and cream, delicate porcelain and gilded petit fours. The green tea is a Zen moment of rusticity, cradled in an earthen cup, with serving pieces of tactile wood and bamboo. The food has the same pure and nourishing qualities, whether steamed or stir-fried, with seasonal vegetables at its heart. The dumplings are a marvel, and you can get a sampler of all five: pork and napa, pork and leek, shrimp, vegetable, and curried chicken.