The Italian-American menu might as well be chiseled in granite: greens and pastina soup, clams casino, mussels in red or white sauce, manicotti, eggplant parmigiana, spaghetti with every conceivable topping (except pesto or sun-dried tomatoes), and 15 possibilities under the heading of veal. Since 1900, Ralph’s well-worn South Philly rooms have been hosting family groups numbering 10 or 12 or 20, and there is never a risk that an entrée will upstage Nonna on her birthday. A waiter may lean down and ask your seven-year-old, “Have you decided what you want?” as if she’s a grown-up.
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