There is no such thing as a light supper at this family-style Italian restaurant. Like Maggiano’s and Buca di Beppo, Polistina’s serves big everything. You want chicken? Go ahead and order the whole bird, cooked rotisserie-style, perfumed with lemon and rosemary. You want pasta? Plan on lugging home half of your supersized manicotti, all bulging with creamy ricotta and doused in a sunny marinara. Fried calamari, garlicky meatball sides, and veal cutlet calabrese are all so bountiful—and so surprisingly difficult to stop eating—that you’ll be tempted to snuggle into your circular booth for a post-meal nap. This would be a mistake, but not a big one, as the predictable desserts are largely skippable.