The red-and-white tiled pizza oven holds the place of honor at Stella—smack in the middle of the kitchen which, itself, is smack in the middle of the floor. There is nowhere a person can sit where they don’t have a view of this oven, and it deserves the spotlight that it has because it is from this oven that 13 of Philly’s greatest pies emerge. Every pizza at Stella has its fans. From the simple charms of the margherita with buffalo mozz to the earthy funk of the egg-and-truffle tartufo, there is something here for everyone to fantasize about while stuck gnawing at some lesser pie gotten from a shop that doesn’t care whether its pepperoni comes from Abruzze or Cleveland and wouldn’t know a ball of scamorza if it rolled up and started humping someone’s leg.
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