Dinner at Pietro’s, named for the Giunta family patriarch, feels like a dressed-up Sunday supper at home. It’s a place where the signature cowboy rib eye (skip the salty béarnaise) is as satisfying at the comfortable mahogany bar as in one of the fancier dimly lit dining rooms; where heaping bowls of best-of-the-sides smashed potatoes are served alongside delicately plated filets; where servers eagerly doggie-bag leftovers of said potatoes; and where no one fusses when you drip the molten center of the decadent house-made chocolate lava cake on the tablecloth. Bonus: Phillies heartthrob Cole Hamels has been known to pop in. Niche: Local lore, with old family portraits on the walls and Pietro’s clan crowded around the bar. Signature steak: 20-ounce cowboy rib eye. The tab: Steaks $29 (eight-ounce filet) to $48 (32-ounce porterhouse); sides average $6. Wine list: A concise, well-considered selection. Some of the best values are, understandably, Italian, like Umberto Cesari sangiovese for $45.