For some, a meal is not a luxury unless glistening oysters and giant king crab legs splayed in a mountain of ice are a part of it. Those people are here, as are the cologne-daubed bachelor-partying dudes, the silent, overweight couples, and the rest of the average Joes you always see down in the Eastern City of Sin. Compared to nearby Sonsie and Buddakan, with their chic fusion menus and relentless design, Phillips—which serves the aforementioned platter of raw niceties, along with more down-home offerings like “jumbo” shrimp cocktail and “famous” crabcakes (just lump crabmeat stuck together with minimal padding) in a food-court-like setting under giant pewter marlins—might seem like one of the more blah restaurants to grace the Pier’s hallowed hallway. But while the other places on the block seem hell-bent on taking you to another place, this Baltimore chain offers probably one of the most genuine Atlantic City experiences you can have: Fresh-off-the-boat seafood and a courtside seat from which to watch the promenade of visitors. There’s nothing blah about that.
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