Never underestimate the popularity of a chain, especially at mealtime. This house of China’s best-Americanized hits—Oriental chicken salad, anyone?—draws quite a crowd come sundown. Patrons wait for the consistent quality. They wait for the clean-flavored hot-and-sour soup, sweet-and-sour chicken, hearty Mongolian beef, garlicky scallops with snow peas, and gingery pork dumplings, all served with irresistible mounds of white or flavorful brown rice, and an affordable, spice-complementing mai tai. They wait—there, beneath the faux blue sky, between two stoic stone horsey sentries—for food they know and like.