Locals nearly rioted when this pizza speakeasy shut down a few years ago, and then greeted its reopening like the Rapture. Penny’s keeps strange hours so you’ll have to show up Thursday through Sunday for its thin, crisp pies with perfect, pocked and cornmeal dusted crusts. And don’t expect anything fancy because this is just a couple of kids and the ovens, delicious sweet-tart red sauce, and a white version with rich, creamy ricotta tucked beneath good mozzarella and sprinkled with salty, tasty sautéed garlic. Like all good speakeasies, you enter through a backdoor hidden from the street. Unlike most speakeasies, Penny’s has a sign.