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Paul is unassuming in every way: the quiet part of Pine Street where it sits, the soft gray walls, the new American menu filled with familiar ingredients—short ribs, scallops and oysters. What’s surprising is the care that’s put into each dish. While the overcooked crab in the spring rolls was a miss, cups of Bibb lettuce, light Roquefort dressing and zing from green apples made for a refreshing salad, and the duck ragout on homemade pasta was delicate enough that we found it a weekday-appropriate entrée. Overall, a solid addition to the neighborhood. Insider tip: The chef suggests you bring along a syrah for the heartier entrées, and recommends a crisp riesling for the light apps.