Like a steakhouse … for seafood. Lots of seafood. There’s seafood for those who dabble in nouveau fusion: wasabi-ed tuna and black-tea-glazed sea bass. There’s seafood for classicists: filler-free crab cakes and fresh Kumamotos. There’s seafood for locavores: Cape May bluefish and flounder. There’s seafood for gluttons: king crab legs and five-and-a-half-pound lobsters. Seafood for fish campers: captain’s platters and coconut shrimp. Seafood that changes on a big, daily menu that necessarily includes a few choices of steaks and chicken. This upscale chain knows what America wants: We want lots of choices. We want big, buttery portions. We want three Chardonnays by the glass. We want waiters in white jackets. We want grilled cheese dinners for our kids. Some of us even want a booth by the bay so we can open the blinds to watch the gulls fly into the marsh for the night.
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