There's no shortage of Vietnamese restaurants near the Italian Market, but few offer backdrops this elegant. Dramatic sprays of pink flowers in tall glass vases, tile-and-textured-stone walls and muted lighting take this newcomer to the next level. While the menu is more compact than those at some of its neighbors, the bold flavors still satisfy. A lively green papaya salad tossed with dried beef offered just the right amount of fiery zing, while cubes of "shaken" beef stir-fried over watercress were remarkably tender; the chicken and fresh ginger cooked in a clay pot was also a winner.
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