The late Giuseppe Rosselli’s cantankerous pronouncements against food stupidities (and food critics) never obscured the fact that his restaurant provided nascent Old City with some of its first great eats. This is homey food, rustic food, the Italian food of Rosselli’s father and grandfather, who were both chefs, and it has First Friday-ites packing the sidewalk, waiting for tables. The candle-in-a-chianti-bottle humbleness of the small, crowded room is the perfect setting for plates of gnocchi; osso buco; and wild mushroom-stuffed crepes sauced with porcini-essence béchamel.
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