Whoever declared Philadelphia the most hostile city in America never met Concetta Varallo, a South Philly native who treats every customer, tourist or local, like a VIP. Concetta’s Italian-born husband, chef Giovanni Varallo, extends hospitality in the form of Italian and Italian-American dishes, as well as some entirely his own. In the latter category is a luscious warm radicchio “salad”: shredded bitter radicchio, crumbled bacon and lump crabmeat, in a balsamic cream sauce. Crabmeat reappears as a stuffing for mussels or clams, in spaghetti, as a topping for veal, even tucked into a steak. House-made potato gnocchi holds its own against its neighborhood rivals. The wine list holds possibilities for conservative or expansive spenders.