Guess what color Il Verdi is? You’re right. Guess which country is represented on nearly 100 percent of this ristorante italiano’s wine list? Right again. There are things to like about Il Verdi. There are ricotta-filled crespelles, fresh pappardelle with woodsy mushrooms, and seared tenderloin—none amazing, but all quite solid. There are things not to like so much: the walk across a slot parlor to reach the women’s restroom, for example. Then there are things to love: the mirror- and statue-laden decor, the fact that you feel as if you’re the only two people in the restaurant even though you could stick your fork in the lasagna of the woman the next table over, and, most of all, Il Verdi’s back-of-the-house chef’s table, where very VIP customers dine near the line.