The sparkling, 620-seat, 22-foot-ceilinged, neatly chandeliered buffet is a far cry from casino cattle-call dining of yore. The joint is downright snazzy (and across from the Red Door Spa, for goodness sakes). The food’s not too shabby, either: Alongside the requisite muddled Asian area—dim sum, sushi, Mongolian BBQ—are a made-to-order crepe station, piles of crustaceans, and copious (and clean) options for salad and pasta. Yes, dinner begins at an hour when most of us are thinking about brunch (between noon and 4 p.m., depending on the day), and yes, you’ll still have to line up between those railings like an amusement park ride, but you’ll also experience something rare and exciting: good, unlimited fare in a nearly fancy setting. Breakfast/brunch served on weekends only.