Ela

627 South 3rd Street
Philadelphia, PA 19147

Phone: 267-687-8512

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After stints running the kitchen at Lacroix (where all things happen by committee) and Mica (where he tried to mesh his progressive style with Chip Roman's more traditional one), Jason Cichonski seems like he's finally found his speed at The Corner Previously Known as Ansill. The first few weeks saw the up-and-coming chef doing his most evocative work yet, with inventive but consistently soulful dishes like duck with pretzel spaetzle, or bacon-graced oysters with deep-fried shallots and hops vinegar. Add cocktails that channel kaffir lime or hot mulled cider, plus surprises like the horseradish granita flanking raw hamachi, and you'll be more than sufficiently sated to forgive the overthought (and overwrought) desserts.