At Stephen Starr's Mexican revamp of the old Midtown IV diner, El Rey, quesadillas are tucked into greaseless made-to-order tortillas — one of several touches distinguishing chef Dionicio Jimenez's fare from other Mexican kitchens around town. Jimenez, whose blend of creativity and classicism won him high praise at Xochitl, executes a mostly traditional menu at El Rey. Signature creations like his watermelon and scallop ceviche will occasionally crop up on the list of specials, but the emphasis here is on straightforward Mexican street cuisine. Think tacos, tamales, torta sandwiches and the like.
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