You’d think sweet, casual BYOBs like Dune would be a dime a dozen in Shore towns. After all, the formula makes perfect sense. Where else but to a one-room dining room full of faded white woodwork and old black-and-white beach photos would you want to go after a long day of wave-jumping? The youthful next-door neighbor to Margate’s neon-lit Dairy Bar draws downbeach diners with just-edgy-enough fare: moules frites with champagne broth and salty pancetta; tabouleh-like cracked wheat salad brimming with asparagus, red grapes and tufts of mâche; locally lined skate on a bed of shiitakes and chewy herb gnocchi; and buttery berry cobbler with a scoop of homemade vanilla. (The Dairy Bar can wait.)
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