Old-school definitely crosses the line into old- fashioned at this City Avenue hotel mainstay, but the place still manages to deliver a sumptuous ambience, with a soaring ceiling, live dinner music, tall-backed booths, rosebuds on the tables, and smooth, tuxedoed servers. A cautious kitchen seems prone to underseasoning and overcooking, but the secret to a good meal here is simple: Order the crabcake to start (it’s nearly all meat), a simple side, and the 10-ounce filet — with a little extra salt, and a notch less done than your usual order. Niche: The Sinatra-style crooner says it all. Straight from Central Casting, but a charming touch. Signature steak: 10-ounce filet. The tab: Steaks $35 (10-ounce filet) to $80 (32-ounce strip); sides average $5.76. Wine list: Not too big, not too small, this list holds pleasant surprises like Glen Carlou’s South African cabernet blend at $57.