Maria Forte’s plain ricotta and spinach-ricotta gnocchi are cloud-like, but they aren’t the only reason to visit Cucina Forte. The feisty blonde from Molise piques diners’ curiousity with her “dream” soup, so named because the recipe came to her in a dream: rich chicken stock, leafy greens, mushrooms, finely chopped vegetables, with a great hunk of pleasantly chewy bread in the center. Veal saltimbocca, covered with prosciutto and a creamy white wine sauce with sage, is a better choice than chicken alla Forte, a sautéed chicken breast crowned with mushrooms, oven-dried tomatoes and lump crabmeat.
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