Classy new Bar 210, slipped inside the serene Square-side dining room at Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, is a nod to our recent flirtation with serious cocktails. Here, elaborate and sometimes overwrought specialty drinks — the cool factor of strawberry-flavored orbs bubbling in your sparkling wine is offset by the difficulty of actually drinking them — meet seemingly familiar dinner options. But this is chef Matt Levin’s kitchen, so fresh potato chips come with quivering house-made ranch foam, and tempura-ed mushrooms are paired with a soy sauce/Coca-Cola combo. The miso mustard is undeniably delicious, but the playful chicken “nugget” it accompanies, it must be admitted, is too familiar, with the same mysterious texture as the original.
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