The idea of a sandwich-centered menu seemed like a gimmick. I mean, imitation crabcake, sardine, even a fried PB&J for dessert? It felt more than a little contrived. Surely the Point Breeze neighbors deserved better after waiting for what seemed like an eternity for owner John Longacre to open his sequel to South Philadelphia Tap Room. Certainly chef Scott Schroeder could come up with something more than fake crabcake? But here’s the thing: He has. That imitation crabcake (labeled a krab kake on the chalkboard menu) is a runaway hit. The krab gives it the vaguely from-the-sea taste of the original, and the breading speaks to the unspoken truth about crabcakes: that it really is all about the filling. And Schroeder scores again with the Pittsburgh cheesesteak—a cross-Commonwealth salute to both the Philly original and Pittsburgh’s Primanti Brothers’ fries-and-coleslaw-bedazzled creations.