Critic's Notebook: Where I’m Eating

I was excited to hear that Raju Bhattarai, a former executive chef at Tiffin, was opening his own restaurant, Ekta. I drove off to Fishtown expecting something like a Tiffin II, but unlike Tiffin’s small but comfortable dining room and recent second-floor addition, was disappointed to find a sparse, un-air conditioned storefront with only two cramped tables for diners.

My advice: Get takeout. (Don’t eat in like I did; you’ll definitely be more comfortable at home.) The food is solid, although the dishes I sampled were less delicious than their Tiffin counterparts. I recommend the onion bhaji ($2.25) and the spicy masaladar chola (chickpeas stewed with onion, tomato, pomegranate and roasted cumin for $6.50). Portions are generous. I was eating leftovers three days later.