Taste: Feast of the Seven Fishes
Our list of where to swim with the fishes — in a good way — this Christmas Eve
- Photo by Brett Thomas
"Are you gonna do the fishes?" one of Joe Palombo's customers demanded more than 15 years ago. "You gotta do the fishes." So this Italian chef does the fishes. The Sicilian and Abruzzi tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes calls for seven different seafood courses, served family-style — a leisurely Christmas Eve meal culminating in midnight mass. But to satisfy South Philly and South Jersey tradition, Palombo prepares more than 30 fishes — "Because no one can agree on which seven are traditional." In Italy, the most common choices are from the Adriatic and Mediterranean: triglia, sepia, baccala. But the Atlantic Ocean has influenced local celebrations, adding the likes of seasonal smelts (pictured) to the menu. This year, Palombo will fry more than 250 pounds of smelts for just one course of the seven-fish feast at Barone's Tuscan Grill — or one option on its 30-plus-item Christmas Eve takeout menu, if you want to start your own tradition.
Area restaurants serving Seven Fishes feasts:
Andreotti's Viennese Café
1442 Route 70 East, Cherry Hill, 856-795-0172; andreottis.com
Bácio Italian Cuisine
2806 Route 130 North, Cinnaminson, 856-303-9100; baciorestaurant.com
Barone's Tuscan Grill
210 Barclay Shopping Center, Route 70 East, Cherry Hill, 856-354-1888; baronerestaurants.com
Luna Rossa Biagio Lamberti
3210 Route 42, Turnersville, 856-728-4505; lambertis.com
Scaturro's Restaurant and Bar
841 Route 73 South, Marlton, 856-985-4560; scaturros.com
Thommy G's
20 West Atlantic Avenue, Audubon, 856-672-1222; thommyg.com
Mamma Maria
1637 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-463-6884; mammamaria.info
Mediterraneo
303 Horsham Road, Horsham, 215-672-5595; mediterraneoristorante.net
Paradiso
1627 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-271-2066; paradisophilly.com
Piccolo Trattoria
32 West Road, Newtown, 215-860-4247; piccolotrattoria.com
Positano
21 West Lancaster Avenue, Ardmore; 610-896-8298
Ralph's
760 South 9th Street, 215-627-6011; ralphsrestaurant.com
Scannicchio's
2500 South Broad Street, 215-468-3900; scannicchio.com
Trattoria Alberto
116 East Gay Street, West Chester, 610-430-0203; trattorialberto.com
Trattoria Prima Donna
1506 Spruce Street; 215-790-0171
Area restaurants serving Seven Fishes feasts:
New Jersey
Andreotti's Viennese Café
1442 Route 70 East, Cherry Hill, 856-795-0172; andreottis.com
Bácio Italian Cuisine
2806 Route 130 North, Cinnaminson, 856-303-9100; baciorestaurant.com
Barone's Tuscan Grill
210 Barclay Shopping Center, Route 70 East, Cherry Hill, 856-354-1888; baronerestaurants.com
Luna Rossa Biagio Lamberti
3210 Route 42, Turnersville, 856-728-4505; lambertis.com
Scaturro's Restaurant and Bar
841 Route 73 South, Marlton, 856-985-4560; scaturros.com
Thommy G's
20 West Atlantic Avenue, Audubon, 856-672-1222; thommyg.com
Pennsylvania
Mamma Maria
1637 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-463-6884; mammamaria.info
Mediterraneo
303 Horsham Road, Horsham, 215-672-5595; mediterraneoristorante.net
Paradiso
1627 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-271-2066; paradisophilly.com
Piccolo Trattoria
32 West Road, Newtown, 215-860-4247; piccolotrattoria.com
Positano
21 West Lancaster Avenue, Ardmore; 610-896-8298
Ralph's
760 South 9th Street, 215-627-6011; ralphsrestaurant.com
Scannicchio's
2500 South Broad Street, 215-468-3900; scannicchio.com
Trattoria Alberto
116 East Gay Street, West Chester, 610-430-0203; trattorialberto.com
Trattoria Prima Donna
1506 Spruce Street; 215-790-0171
Originally published in Philadelphia magazine, February 2007
