Dining, Food & Wine Article

We’re Cravin’ Asian

By Victor Fiorillo

Photo by Clint Bowers
From banchan in Olney to Guizhou chicken in Exton, we went through dozens of chopsticks to bring you our favorite Asian restaurants.

Korean

What to expect: Marinated meats barbecued tabletop; kimchi, fermented, pickled vegetables; sesame oil, garlic, fermented soybean paste, and gochujang, a chili sauce.
Our pick: Jong Ka Jib, 6600 North 5th Street; 215-924-0100.
For novices: The pae jong pancake, spiked with shrimp and calamari; all of the vinegary banchan; smooth and spicy soft tofu soup into which you crack a raw egg.
For adventurers: Ask for “very spicy.” The cooks are heat-happy.

Japanese

What to expect: Fish, fish and more fish, usually raw; white rice with everything; soba, udon and ramen noodles; miso paste, made from fermented soybeans, as a flavor base.
Our pick: Morimoto, 723 Chestnut Street; 215-413-9070.
For novices: Miso soup with Manila clams; warm octopus carpaccio; “Kobe” short ribs with red miso.
For adventurers: $120 omakase, up to nine courses of the chef’s choosing; the $85 fugu (poisonous blowfish) platter, complete with fugu-infused sake.

Vietnamese

What to expect: Pho, a beef noodle soup made with star anise; fish sauce; cold rice vermicelli noodles topped with meats, seafood or spring rolls and a tart, spicy sauce.
Our pick: Pho & Cafe Viet Huong, 1110 Washington Avenue; 215-336-5030.
For novices: The basic pho, to which you should add bean sprouts, mint, Thai basil, chilies and lime juice, plus a hefty dose of Tuong Ot sriracha, Vietnam’s Tabasco.
For adventurers: Pho with tendon, tripe and “fish balls”; the raw beef platter, served with lime wedges.

Chinese

What to expect: You can’t define the cuisine of a nation of a billion-plus, but the most widely available subsection is Szechuan, known for its spicy dishes, like kung pao.
Our pick: Tifco’s China Bistro, 163 West Lincoln Highway, Exton; 610-363-1850.
For novices: Steamed pork ribs with potatoes; fish filet wok-seared with pickled hot peppers.
For adventurers: From the special Chinese menu, get the combustible Guizhou chicken and cumin lamb.

Malaysian

What to expect: Indian and Chinese influences; satay—grilled, ­skewered meats—served with peanut sauce; chilies, coconut milk and belacan, a shrimp paste.
Our pick: Banana Leaf,
1009 Arch Street; 215-592-8288.
For novices: Roti canai, crispy bread to scoop up chicken curry; fried squid with ground dried shrimp; homemade coconut or watermelon drinks; spicy prawn soup.
For adventurers: The menu warns you to “ask server for advice” before ordering items like fish head curry and treated duck web. An intrepid diner’s paradise.

Indonesian

What to expect: Satays are common; rendang, a stick-to-your-ribs curry; almost never pork, since most Indonesians are Muslim; fried rice cooked in a sweet soy sauce.
Our pick: Hardena, 1754 South Hicks Street; 215-271-9442.
For novices: Any of the satays, which are only available on weekends; beef rendang; gado-gado, a cooling cabbage salad with peanut sauce.
For adventurers: There’s no menu; you just tell the counter what you want from a large steam tray. So if you venture outside the picks at left, you’re on your own.

Laotian

What to expect: Sticky rice; larb (minced chicken, beef or fish marinated and tossed with mint, fish sauce and other seasonings); galangal, a gingery spice; pungent kaffir lime leaves; jerky (yes, jerky).
Our pick: Café de Laos, 1117 South 11th Street; 215-467-1546.
For novices: Pork jerky with hints of the pineapple juice it was cured in; chicken larb; papaya salad; sticky rice, served in a woven bamboo steamer, to soothe the burn.
For adventurers: Unfortunately, the restaurant has eliminated the more obscure items, like grilled ox liver and snakehead fish.

Thai

What to expect: Complex flavors; popular noodle dish pad Thai; green, red and yellow curries made with coconut milk; satays; fish sauce, Thai basil, galangal and ginger abound.
Our pick: A Little Thai Kitchen, 1900 Greentree Road, Cherry Hill; 856-489-1181.
For novices: Green curry with shrimp or chicken; fried whole red snapper, topped with a garlic and black pepper sauce; any of the noodle dishes.
For adventurers: The waiter will ask if you want “no spicy,” “little spicy,” “medium spicy,” “very spicy” or “Thai style”. Obviously, you should choose the last one.
Originally published in Philadelphia magazine, May 2006
 

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