Dining, Food & Wine Article |
Where We're Eating
- Wilmington's Domaine Hudson.
Eminent Domaine
A bite of baby lamb chop, a nibble of lobster tail with jalapeño salsa, a sip of toasty blanc de noirs from New Mexico — it all adds up to Domaine Hudson (1314 North Washington Street, Wilmington, 302-655-9463; domainehudson.com), where former Dilworthtown Inn chef Jason Barrowcliff oversees the posh small-plate noshes. With wine pours starting under $3 and no sales tax, the bill is a small wonder as well. — Maria Gallagher
Audrey Anniversary
The sidewalk sandwich board announces a five-course tasting menu; the menu nods to the importance of local farmers. These were not necessary foodie flourishes when Audrey Claire (276 South 20th Street, 215-731-1222; audreyclaire.com) opened its windows 10 years ago this month. Despite the buzzwords, many of the same Mediterranean menu items are here, though now executed with less careful attention. But the old-fashioned apple cake with fresh whipped cream is still one of the sweetest desserts in the city. — April White
On the Horizon
No, we hadn’t been to Horizons before (611 South 7th Street; 215-923-6117). The waitress looked sheepish: “Well, we’re 100 percent vegan.” The restaurant has no need to apologize for a tropics-influenced menu that doesn’t hide a veg philosophy behind the word chicken. Artistically plated highlights include pale green edamame hummus brightened with wasabi radish salad, and a spiral of chilled, thinly sliced portabella carpaccio. — A.W.
Casual Cassis
Cross the wood-planked bridge over a swan pond leading to formal Pond Restaurant and casual Bistro Cassis (175 King of Prussia Road, Radnor, 610-293-9521; cassis-bistro.net), in the Radnor Racquet Club. Practical chef Abde Dahrouch, who turns out food for both from the same kitchen, gives customers a choice. At Bistro Cassis you can dine in denim on a sweet, abundant foie gras appetizer and rockfish with ravioli de Royan (a French cheese) from the Pond menu, or stick with the bistro-appropriate well-dressed salads, linguine with cockles, or duck confit risotto. — Ashley Primis
Zeke Peek
Zeke’s Main Line Barbecue (6001 Lancaster Avenue; 215-871-7427) has reopened after a nearly yearlong hiatus. And we’re happy to report it’s the same old Zeke’s, not some “new and improved” version. Same quirky owner, who is quick to diss one of his local competitors. (“You know, that’s not even true barbecue!”) Same immodestly portioned chipotle-spiked ribs, smoked out back. Same extremely fattening side dishes—the green beans are the best around. All proving that a lack of change can be a very good thing. — Victor Fiorillo
A bite of baby lamb chop, a nibble of lobster tail with jalapeño salsa, a sip of toasty blanc de noirs from New Mexico — it all adds up to Domaine Hudson (1314 North Washington Street, Wilmington, 302-655-9463; domainehudson.com), where former Dilworthtown Inn chef Jason Barrowcliff oversees the posh small-plate noshes. With wine pours starting under $3 and no sales tax, the bill is a small wonder as well. — Maria Gallagher
Audrey Anniversary
The sidewalk sandwich board announces a five-course tasting menu; the menu nods to the importance of local farmers. These were not necessary foodie flourishes when Audrey Claire (276 South 20th Street, 215-731-1222; audreyclaire.com) opened its windows 10 years ago this month. Despite the buzzwords, many of the same Mediterranean menu items are here, though now executed with less careful attention. But the old-fashioned apple cake with fresh whipped cream is still one of the sweetest desserts in the city. — April White
On the Horizon
No, we hadn’t been to Horizons before (611 South 7th Street; 215-923-6117). The waitress looked sheepish: “Well, we’re 100 percent vegan.” The restaurant has no need to apologize for a tropics-influenced menu that doesn’t hide a veg philosophy behind the word chicken. Artistically plated highlights include pale green edamame hummus brightened with wasabi radish salad, and a spiral of chilled, thinly sliced portabella carpaccio. — A.W.
Casual Cassis
Cross the wood-planked bridge over a swan pond leading to formal Pond Restaurant and casual Bistro Cassis (175 King of Prussia Road, Radnor, 610-293-9521; cassis-bistro.net), in the Radnor Racquet Club. Practical chef Abde Dahrouch, who turns out food for both from the same kitchen, gives customers a choice. At Bistro Cassis you can dine in denim on a sweet, abundant foie gras appetizer and rockfish with ravioli de Royan (a French cheese) from the Pond menu, or stick with the bistro-appropriate well-dressed salads, linguine with cockles, or duck confit risotto. — Ashley Primis
Zeke Peek
Zeke’s Main Line Barbecue (6001 Lancaster Avenue; 215-871-7427) has reopened after a nearly yearlong hiatus. And we’re happy to report it’s the same old Zeke’s, not some “new and improved” version. Same quirky owner, who is quick to diss one of his local competitors. (“You know, that’s not even true barbecue!”) Same immodestly portioned chipotle-spiked ribs, smoked out back. Same extremely fattening side dishes—the green beans are the best around. All proving that a lack of change can be a very good thing. — Victor Fiorillo
Originally published in Philadelphia magazine, June 2006
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