Finestra Review: New in Town

This town teems with joints where you can load up on heaps of pasta drenched in goopy alfredo. Happily, Trump Marina's boisterous new Italian restaurant and lounge is not one of those places. Instead, Finestra — whose name means "window," a reference to its glassy view of the skyline — takes a lighter, more Mediterranean approach. The menu here shows off fresh seafood, local seasonal produce, and house-made pasta. Our recommendations: savory, straightforward Chilean sea bass, luxurious lobster risotto, and seconds on the bread basket of crispini, soft focaccia and semolina that comes with a dish of heavenly, lemon-and-olive-oil-infused goat cheese. Even the décor is a departure, with a hip circular bar, food plated on shallow hand-painted bowls, and sleek Wedgwood flatware. If you can't break away from the gaming tables long enough to sample the à la carte dinner menu, sneak in a trip to the antipasti bar or grab a quick flatbread pizza and a just-made gelato from the lounge: Either option is far better than hitting a coffee shop.

Finestra, Trump Marina, Huron Avenue and Brigantine Boulevard, 609-441-2000; trumpmarina.com.