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The Revisit: Sbraga

6_Sbraga_Mike Arrison

You know it’s a bad sign when a restaurant’s worst item offers its best food for thought.

Such was the case for the “cheesesteak soup dumplings” at Sophia’s when I reviewed it last month: a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad dish that articulated a vision of Philadelphia cuisine so beholden to kitsch that it made me feel embarrassed for the city itself. It wasn’t just that the dumplings were soggy on the bottom and heat-hardened on the top, or that their parmesan crust made them more like sad nachos than a sandwich, or that the whole sorry show was staged on an escargot plate. It was more the idea that the cheesesteak itself remains the lodestone of Philadelphia’s food culture, and that we, as Philadelphians, can still be counted on to lap up any homage to it, no matter how forced or half-witted, as though the entire last decade of culinary development never happened. As though everything from Paesano’s to Vedge, Taquitos de Pueblo’s Headhouse Market truck to Little Baby Ice Cream, Stateside to Bluecoat gin just never saw the light of day in this city.

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Another One Bites The Dust: Matt Zagorski Out At Hickory Lane


And the hits just keep on coming…

The Insider is reporting that chef Matt Zagorski has jumped ship, leaving his exec chef spot at Hickory Lane in Fairmount for a gig with GuestCounts Hospitality–the folks behind Cuba Libre, Brulee Catering, Gourmetro (also catering) and Square Peg.

Hey, wait a minute… Didn’t Square Peg also lose a chef recently? It did! That’s the post recently vacated by chef Matt Levin (who made a lateral transition and is now working at Brulee Catering), so is Zagorski headed for Square Peg to take over Levin’s old house?

Not according to the GuestCounts team. Though (weirdly) no one there could tell me what job Zagorski had actually been hired for, they did insist that he wasn’t going to be taking over the kitchen at Square Peg.

As soon as we know what job the new Matt will be doing, we’ll let you know. Stay tuned.

GuestCounts Hospitality [Official]

Matt Zagorski Leaves Hickory Lane [The Insider]


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