Some of you have probably already heard that Meritage recently let go their chef, Paul Gauthier, after just three months on the job. Eater Philly had the early word on that one–including a rare bit of honesty from a restaurant owner when they quoted Meritage owner Michelle DiPietro as saying “Paul’s uninspired menu was not received well.”
But now, we’ve got news on Gauthier’s replacement. New chef Steven Forte, formerly of Farmers’ Cabinet (which we’ll try not to hold against him), is in the kitchen now and already making changes.
What kind of changes? Well, you can check out chef Forte’s new Meritage menu here and decide for yourself whether or not this one looks a bit more inspiring to you.
Meritage at 20th and Lombard has named Paul Gauthier as its new executive chef. Gauthier, who is a Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts and Restaurant Management graduate of Scottsdale Culinary Institute replaces Anne Coll (who is going to be running the kitchen at Susanna Foo’s new Center City restaurant) who was the longtime Meritage chef and her successor, Adam Ratmoko.
In a adjective rich release, Meritage promises Gauthier will bring “seasonally inspired cuisine prepared with a modern French technique” to the restaurant.
The menu no longer has any hits of Asian influence but now offers standards like Beef Bourguignon, Bolognese and seared salmon.
Check out the full menu »
Craig LaBan has been promoting and demoting restaurants almost weekly in his online chats and Thursday food columns. Today, the Inquirer critic sings the praise of Will BYOB. He promotes Chris Kearse’s BYOB to three bells, stating:
[E]very intricate touch amplified the central themes, rather than distracting. Foie gras mousse enriched a bar of rabbit rillettes accented by wine-poached figs. Citrus-caramelized Belgian endive and licorice called out Sichuan spice on the duck. An entire hen of the woods, meanwhile, was cooked to two striking textures – buttery-crisp across a pan-roasted face of flattened fronds scented with sumac and rose hips, lusciously fleshy and moist at its heart, beneath which a Madeira caramel and smoked ricotta smear amplified its earthy savor.
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