- Neighborhood: University City
- 501 South 45th Street, Philadelphia, PA
- Phone: 215-222-3699
- Website | Facebook
- Cuisine: New American
- Alcohol: BYOB
- Price: $$$
- Accepts Credit Cards: Yes
A couple months ago, we reported on the (completely depressing) news that chef Rob Halpern was leaving Marigold Kitchen and that, upon his departure, the place was going to close. At the time, we said:
Oh, and for those of you look-on-the-bright-side types out there who always think something will come along and save the day? Marigold is also being put up for sale.
Well guess what? According to the Insider, some buyers have come along. And those buyers just happen to be Halpern’s chefs de cuisine, Tim Lanza and Andrew Kochan.
There’s not a lot of news other than that–except that the old Marigold will still be closing after Saturday’s dinner service and the new crew hopes to reopen some time around the first of September.
Talk about going out on top. 3 bells from Laban, a #2 slot on our most recent list of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philly. And now word has come down that chef Robert Halpern is leaving his post at Marigold Kitchen. The reason? He’s getting married. After that, he’s moving to California. And frankly, that would be one helluva commute.
Craig LaBan reviews the modernist cuisine of Marigold Kitchen in West Philadelphia, where chef Robert Halpern is turning out vivid avant garde dishes.
The most memorable course, though, unfolded before us in a multistage presentation that teased several senses. A jam jar filled with a dried porcini, red chile, a bay leaf, and a Japanese orchid petal was covered tableside in warm mushroom dashi and set to steep. Two aromatic minutes later, it was poured like a woodsy tea over a bowl of soy-cured hamachi sashimi. With a “forest” of exotic mushrooms perched like a still life on the bowl’s rim for extra-earthy punch, the entire composition was a deeply layered umami bath – but also remarkably light. The sensation that lingered most was still the luxurious snap of the succulent raw fish.
Three Bells – Excellent
50 Best Restaurants – Marigold Kitchen, #2 [Philadelphia Magazine]