- Neighborhood: Queen Village
- 743 S. Fourth Street, Philadelphia, PA
- Phone: 215-278-2736
- Website | Facebook | Twitter
- Cuisine: American
- Alcohol: Full Bar
- Meals Served: Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch
- Accepts Credit Cards: Yes
This story has been updated.
The almighty James Beard Awards Committee rarely ever left its comfort-zone when it came down to Philadelphia restaurants. Year after year, it was always Philly’s ultra-notable restaurants and chef names that made the cut — Zahav, Vedge, Vernick, Fork; Vetri, Starr, Solomonov — with the occasional nod to any Philly talent considered under-the-radar on the national scale, e.g. Joe Cicala, Konstantinos Pitsillides, Andre Chin and Amanda Eap (Artisan Boulanger Patissier). That’s not to say those big-name nominations weren’t deserved — they absolutely were — it’s just that there’s so much more to this city than Zahav and Marc Vetri. The rest of the country just isn’t aware.
But for whatever reason, this year, Philly-area chefs and restaurants, both big and small, caught the committee’s attention. Check out who’s repping Philly in 2017:
Look for the nipple. That’s the secret to a great madeleine — the nipple, or téton as the French would say. It’s the bump on the backside of the shell-shaped dessert native to the town of Commercy in the Lorraine region; the bigger the nipple, the fluffier the cake.
Hungry Pigeon’s madeleines? Well, you’ll see.
Eating is a political act. Always has been. You state your intent and your beliefs and you declare your tribe every day. No one single meal defines you, but they all aggregate. Rarely does an opportunity come along to plant the flag boldly with just one dinner.
But sometimes they do. A couple days ago, we announced Le Virtu’s Sanctuary Supper. And now there’s this.