The burger at Girard was one of the things Craig LaBan did like.
Craig LaBan savages Girard, the BYO on Girard Avenue that made headlines before it even opened, with its no-tipping policy. LaBan found poor execution and something even more surprising, a line on the check for tips.
But too many dishes failed to connect good ideas to a plate of complete success. Oliveira’s signature omelet was textbook perfect, stuffed with avocado, creamy cheddar and bacon. But the side of charred grapefruit, grilled face down (letting the sugar fall off) instead of brûléed with a torch, was bitterly burnt. The lamb ragu had an intriguing daube-like inflection of olives and orange, but was literally braised to a mush that was poorly paired with doughy gnocchi. A torchon of foie gras, usually a luxuriously creamy disk of delicately poached liver, was an off-tasting smudge of tan butter on toast overwhelmed by a thicker smudge of fig jam for $13.
One Bell – Hit or Miss
Bold but confusing Girard Brasserie and Bruncherie in Fishtown [Philadelphia Inquirer]
The menu at Girard
Girard, the restaurant made famous for its no-tipping policy, rarely gets press for the food it serves up. Adam Erace rectified this oversight in a review for City Paper, writing about what actually concerns people when they read restaurant reviews: the food.
It’s a shame the tipping situation has gotten the most publicity because Oliveira’s cooking is what should really be in the limelight. He can be heavy-handed with salt, but I really enjoyed what he cooked for me, beginning with a smart little avocado toast topped with grapefruit segments, wheels of watermelon radish, tarragon oil and Sichuan pepper.
Girard [City Paper]
Girard–the new 70-seat, “no-tip” Frenchy BYO brasserie and bruncherie–is opening today. As a matter of fact, it’s open right now.
The restaurant (which is open from 7:30 a.m. until 10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays) is featuring brunch standards, as well as liquefied fruits and vegetables–which are presented as “Liquid Breakfast.” The menu will be health conscious and seasonal.
A "Roti," or roast, will also be available on rotation, starting with French leg of lamb on Tuesdays, roasted cauliflower on Wednesdays, crown roast of pork on Thursdays, and whole roasted fish on Fridays.
Girard is also reservation-only, so if you want to dine, you'll have to arrange it in advance.
And with that, here's the full menu...
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