Adam Erace has some problems with the food at the Gaslight, but that’s nothing compared to what he had to say about the drinks.
The Gaslight, the new bar/restaurant from Jason Cichonski, a chef whose reputation is built — fairly or unfairly — on equal parts scallop noodles and sex appeal. When he and Nick Elmi first encountered each other on the last season of Top Chef, Elmi looked at Cichonski’s pastel pink shorts and quipped, “You look like you just got off a yacht.”
I felt like I was on one at The Gaslight, that’s about how rocky the food was, but the cocktails were even weirder. This list appears to have been curated by a Cherry Hill bachelorette party, with confections bearing names like Pirate Hooker (a red currant Bellini, because who doesn’t want that at 9:30 p.m.?) and Hello Kitty, a martini whose fruity flavors (green tea, lychee, strawberry) make more sense together at Old City Frozen Yogurt down the street.
Tragically named cocktails aren't the only missteps at The Gaslight [City Paper]
The Gaslight [Foobooz]
The crew at the Gaslight is doing an invite-only tasting of Czech BBQ (no, I don’t really know what that would taste like either) and unfiltered, unpasteurized, fresh-from-the-barrel Pilsner Urquell. And if you’re up for it, you could win a seat at the table.
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In a quick turnaround, Old City’s newest destination, The Gaslight, opened a few weeks ago in the old Philadelphia Bar and Restaurant space across the street from The Franklin Fountain. The menu–made up of ‘Chips & Dips’, ‘Apps & Snacks’, and ‘Big Plates’–is a chance for chef Jason Cichonski to play with ideas too casual for his other restaurant, Ela, and better suited to a bar than to fine dining.
From our first glimpse of their opening menu it seems that there are some good ones: garlic hummus, charred eggplant salsa, and three other dips are served with a selection of chips: pita, house-puffed rice crackers, and tortilla (fried up from the wares of the San Roman tortilleria on 9th Street). Onion rings, coated in panko, maintain their crunch beautifully alongside charred long hot peppers and yuzu aioli. The foie gras and chicken liver mouse with raisiny red wine mostarda is sure to become a favorite if ordered with the pickle board – three generous cups of house made pickles, to cut its richness.
On the entree side, Scottish salmon with goat cheese polenta, sprouted lentil salad, and blood orange vinaigrette appears alongside pulled duck flatbread drizzled with hoisin and classics like spaghetti bolognese, short ribs, fried chicken and burgers. It’s refined pub food in a warm, airy space with ample bar seating and plenty of bottles to choose from and it might just be exactly what Old City needs.
And we, of course, have all the pictures...
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