The story line of Open Stove XXXIII is an odd one: For the first time, the competition was comprised of two graduates of the COOK Masters Program: Christopher Ritter of The Grubhouse and Kris Serviss of Blue Duck Sandwich Company. For those of you who don’t know, the COOK Masters Program is an annual, free instructional cooking series at COOK, taught by some of the country’s biggest culinary names, for students who are truly passionate about pursuing a professional career in the restaurant industry. So we took two people who’ve graduated from the program, put them up against one another, and watched them fight it out.
Weirdly enough, one of them brought an orthodontist as his sous.
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Craig LaBan ventures to Northeast Philadelphia this week and finds Kris Serviss (COOK Masters alum) and Joe Callahan’s Blue Duck Sandwich Co., a BYOB that’s waking up the neighborhood.
[W]hile Serviss plays with ingredients that would be at home on any trendy Center City menu – black garlic, sunchokes, crispy tri-color cauliflower (very loosely inspired by Zahav) – the core items here are simply the kitchen’s whimsical updates to familiar comfort flavors. They up the savor quotient on the classic blue-plate special with meatloaf made from wild boar (delicious, though it could use a little more softness) and earthy, sweet mashed parsnips. Tender gnocchi play sweet on spice, swapping sweet potatoes for the usual white spuds, and adding the hot spark of shaved jalapeño rings to the nutty gloss of sage brown butter.
Two Bells – Very Good
Blue Duck Fills the Bill in N.E. Philly [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Blue Duck Sandwich Co. [Foobooz]
Kris Serviss has opened his Blue Duck Sandwich Company at 2859 Holme Avenue in Northeast Philadelphia. The BYOB serves much more than just sandwiches. Highlights from the menu include: three types of wings as well as mac and cheeses including chorizo mac and cheese, a pork roll burger, fried chicken, pan-seared cobia, weekly taco specials and the namesake Blue Duck Sandwich, which consists of shredded duck confit, sautéed Swiss chard, roasted portabellas, blueberry barbecue sauce on a toasted onion roll.
Blue Duck Sandwich Company is open seven days of the week for lunch and dinner, with brunch on the weekends.
Check out the full menu »