Cuisine: New American
Alcohol: Full Bar
Meals Served: Dinner
- Price: $$$$
- Accepts Credit Cards:
- Hours: Monday through Saturday: Dinner from 5:30 p.m.; Bar opens at 4 p.m.
It looks like Lacroix (and the Rittenhouse Hotel in general) have done a bit of hiring and brought some new bodies into the kitchen and onto the floor.
The first is Tova du Plessis, who is coming aboard as pastry chef. That name sound familiar to you? It should. She did time at Le Bec Fin on the savory side as a sous chef, worked at Citron & Rose but, most notably, was the opening pastry chef at Avance, brought in by chef Justin Bogle to handle the sweet side of the menu. She was let go early on in Avance’s run (which, this month, might not be the worst thing in the world), but was quickly picked up by the team at Lacroix for this new gig.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
There’s been a lot of talk lately about what kind of restaurant town we really want to be. In the Philadelphia magazine that’s on the stands right now, I’ve got an essay asking what it means to our restaurant scene when being merely great is no longer a guarantee of success. We’ve been writing an awful lot about Volver–Jose Garces‘s new high-stakes (and high price) gamble at the Kimmel Center which now stands as the most expensive dinner in town by a long stretch. And as we all know by now, between knee-capping reviews from both Craig Laban and our own Trey Popp, and a whole lot of people on the streets wondering if the storied Walnut Street address might be better off if it was just turned into a Jamba Juice and ignored until all the ghosts of Le Bec-Fin have departed, Avance is having itself a very rough month.
And now, with all this in mind, I just ran across this essay over at Esquire’s “Eat Like A Man” blog which essentially lays the blame for every modern sin in restaurant-dom squarely at our feet.
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We’ve been waiting a while for Craig Laban to weigh in on Avance, and now that he has, we’re guessing that the crew in the kitchen and on the floor probably wishes he’d waited a little longer. In a review that read even harsher than the two bell ranking Avance scored, Laban calls out problems almost everywhere–with the notable exception of the downstairs bar.
When we stepped up for the full $138 chef’s tasting two weeks later, though, Avance wasn’t yet ready for its training wheels to come off. The excellent house-baked breads (smoked wheatberry, Armenian rye) became a tasting of one cold roll after another (save for scorched brioche with the foie gras.) Servers hovered, popping over to answer eavesdropped questions that hadn’t actually been asked. Cherniavsky’s by-the-glass pairings were mixed, scoring with a fleshy Greco from Basilicata to start, an Angerer Grüner for the tartare, and a Florido Moscatel sherry for the custardy frozen foie gras, but stumbling over reds, with an $18 just-opened 2001 Crozes-Hermitage that needed more time to open up and a funky South African cab franc blend that was just off.
Two Bells — Very Good
Avance Has A Way To Go To Live Up To Its Address [Philadelphia Inquirer]
All Avance coverage [f8b8z]