Precisely cut fish — not flashy, splashy sauce — is the hallmark at Zento, from former Morimoto sushi chef Gunawan Wibisono. The three-seat sushi bar’s admirable restraint with the ubiquitous spicy mayonnaise allows the flavors of the seafood to dominate in its sushi rolls — or squares. The elegantly rectangular “zento square sushi” is a well-balanced combination of Philly sushi favorites — eel and avocado inside, with lightly sweet-and-spicy tuna on top. A bonus: The small BYOB dining room is usually relaxing and subdued — a pleasant surprise in Old City — without being artificially Zen-like.

Zento Contemporary | 138 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA | 215-925-9998 | http://zentocontemporary.com