What’s left to say in praise of Osteria, Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin’s Italian gem that has, improbably, brought Center City nightlife to North Broad Street? Nothing. But we’ll happily repeat our usual dinner order: the exuberant but exactingly cooked vegetable antipasto plate, a thin-crust pizza from the fiery brick oven, a quirky ceramic bowl filled with tangles of house-made candele pasta, and the bundino, that brilliant, sweet hazelnut-and-cream take on, yes, polenta.

Osteria | 640 North Broad Street, Philadelphia, PA | 215-763-0920 | http://osteriaphilly.com