From a formidable field of contenders, Osteria emerges the winner on the strength of its fine handmade pastas, grandmother-inspired braised dishes, and unusual ultra-thin-crust pizzas, including one topped with house-made pork sausage and a soft-cooked egg. Marc Vetri could have opened his second restaurant anywhere, but he chose a still-gritty neighborhood where Fairmount meets North Philly. Designer Michael Gruber merits a mention for turning what was once a drab section of parking garage into an airy industrial-chic dining room and open kitchen that glows with good feeling. The hands-on chef is 30-year-old Jeffrey Michaud, who went to Bergamo — as Vetri did — to learn the Italian way of curing meats, baking breads, and making ethereal desserts from polenta.

Osteria | 640 North Broad Street, Philadelphia, PA | 215-763-0920 | http://osteriaphilly.com