Cicchetti — the small plates that Italians nibble at their favorite bars — are supposed to be the focus at Modo Mio. However, chef/owner Peter McAndrews can’t resist serving extra-generous portions of dishes such as chickpea fritters with red-pepper relish and grilled shrimp, or cotechino sausage with an over-easy egg and crisp polenta, at his casual, cash-only corner BYOB on the border of Northern Liberties and Fishtown. While the dining room decor is plain, the food is not: McAndrews, who previously cooked at Rembrandt’s and Porcini, makes his own pappardelle and gnocchi, and bakes his own bread, as he did during apprenticeships in Piemonte and Molise. The $30 four-course menu is a steal. Think Osteria, at a lower price point.

Modo Mio | 161 West Girard Avenue, Philadelphia, PA | 215-203-8707 | http://modomiorestaurant.com