Who would have thought the humble mussel was so ripe for reinvention? Chef/owner David Katz proves the mighty bivalves can be so much more than a saucy partner for beer and bread, shelling his, then dredging them in a fine coat of Wondra before quickly cooking them on a sizzling slab of cast iron. The result: morsels that are meltingly tender, with a crisp exterior. A lemony-herbal drizzle of olive oil makes them sing.

Meme | 2201 Spruce Street, Philadelphia, PA | 215-735-4900 | http://memerestaurant.com