The restaurant proper is too expensive. The crowd can get a bit snooty. And no matter which side of the wall you’re eating on, the “recommended” valet parking is an enormous pain in the ass. But Bar Savona (the more casual half of the Savona/Bar Savona dichotomy) is worth it once you find your way to a high-top, bar stool or patio table and relax into the flow of service. Spend one evening here and you’ll understand why we sometimes drive all the way to Gulph Mills just for a pizza or a bowl of spaghetti with veal meatballs.

Bar Savona | 100 Old Gulph Road, Conshohocken, PA | 610-520-1200 | http://savonarestaurant.com