Darwish was a Le Bec fixture for years, which means he’s a master at his trade: He kisses the ladies hello (both cheeks, of course), prattles with the fellas, answers every question, and provides anything you might need. Though he’s both seasoned and Parisian, don’t expect fussy, frigid or formal. No other maître d’ in the city marries professional polish with approachable mirth so effortlessly.

Union Trust Steakhouse | 717 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA | 215-925-6000 | http://uniontruststeakhouse.com/