The oversize triceps on workers at Grey Lodge Pub promise one thing: Hand. Cut. Fries. Even better, the fresh russets are fried twice, giving the crispy spears a pillow-soft inside. A first quick low-heat blanch in shortening removes starches. When a hungry bar patron places an order, the fries are crisped in a second, higher-heat oil bath, then seasoned simply with salt and pepper, sprinkled with a house-made spicy Cajun powder, or, for fifty cents extra, served with a side of American cheese sauce. Culinary technique at its finest for a mere $3, best washed down with one of haute brews at this jewel-of-the-Northeast pub.

Grey Lodge Pub | 6235 Frankford Avenue, Philadelphia, PA | 215-825-5357 | http://www.greylodge.com