We loved Pif, David Ansill’s now-defunct tiny French gem, but we might love “Pif Night” even more. Each Sunday (on hiatus until after Labor Day) at his current restaurant, Ansill, the chef resurrects Pif with a $45 three-course French prix-fixe menu that often includes the best dish we’ve tasted all year: Ansill’s rack of lamb with potato galette. The perfectly cooked and tender lamb rests on a crisp-creamy potato pancake, and the whole dish is drizzled with lamb jus infused with rich bone marrow. It’s homey, hearty comfort-food perfection.

Ansill | AL