Le Bec-Fin meets the BYOB at Gilmore’s, and we couldn’t be happier with the odd marriage. The food — both classic and contemporary dishes — shows all the careful refinement you’d expect from a Perrier protg, but the atmosphere is Wednesday-night-dinner relaxed. And the prices: There are entres at Le Bec that cost more than Gilmore’s weekday $35 four-course bistro menu.

Gilmore's | 133 East Gay Street, West Chester, PA | 610-431-2800 | http://gilmoresrestaurant.com