First Look: Fourth & Cross


Andrew Michaels’ Pennsport cafe Fourth & Cross is only a few weeks into its opening. Business is brisk and, in what is usually a relatively slow time of year for restaurants, it’s easy to see why. The bright, airy space is located less than a block from Dickinson Square Park in a neighborhood that doesn’t boast much in the way of dining, save for the vegan treats on offer at Grindcore House or the laundromat that also makes bubble tea.

We’ve got details (and photos) below.

It helps that they’re serving up a menu with the broad appeal of diner fare, but they’re using really good ingredients and adding interesting twists. Breakfast is the usual parade of eggs, pancakes, and biscuits with gravy, but with little flourishes like the fact that they’re making their own yogurt in-house (as well as a coconut milk version), and that if you order the fresh herb omelette it comes with super-aged Havilah cheese from Cherry Grove Farm in place of generic shreds.

Sure, there’s a burger and a BLT on the lunch menu, but I guarantee that no other South Philly diner is running a special of Charleston seafood broth with wild-caught shrimp from Florida, yellow tomato, barley, and dill. Plus, that burger is pasture-raised beef and you can opt to add 1732 Meats bacon or Grafton cheddar to it. The lunch line-up also includes an oyster po’ boy, Virginia oysters crusted in Bloody Butcher polenta from Castle Valley mills and the Bistro Classic salad, whole leaves of tender lettuce with bacon, tomato, potato, a poached egg saucing the whole thing, perfect brunch fare. Desserts like 6 layer chocolate cake and cherry pie look like they’re something out of an Edward Hopper painting, and with a bottomless cup of ReAnimator Coffee, you could make the trip to Pennsport for them alone.

For the moment, Fourth & Cross is serving breakfast and lunch only, but they’ll soon add a dinner menu, too. And no matter what meal you’re having they’re cash only and BYOB.

Fourth & Cross -1527 South 4th Street