Three Bells for Eli Collins and Pub & Kitchen

Photo via Pub & Kitchen

Photo via Pub & Kitchen

Craig LaBan revisits Pub & Kitchen at 20th and Lombard and finds that the corner hot spot has gone from gastropub to restaurant with a bar. And a mighty fine restaurant at that.

A perfectly seared fillet of fluke came over a sweet dice of yellow rutabaga with lentils and whole-grain-mustard crème fraîche. Tiny, tender calamari were stuffed like sausages with spicy house-made chorizo over a milky almond-anchovy puree with grilled celery stalks that had been tanged with lemon. Giant head-on prawns, brushed with a tangy spring barbecue glaze of rhubarb and aji amarillo chiles, paired with toasted farro and a vivid green puree that also snapped with whole fresh sweet peas.

Three Bells – Excellent

A second look at Pub & Kitchen [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Pub & Kitchen
 [Foobooz]


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  • variable

    Is it just me or are local Yelp reviewers taking on the affect in prose of Craig LaBan? Or is it the other way around… hmm