Craig LaBan visits Manayunk’s Taqueria Feliz where he is generally impressed with what’s coming out of Lucio Palazzo’s kitchen, grasshoppers and all. But the reason to go, is Palazzo’s lamb barbacoa.
Palazzo’s true destination masterpiece, though, his lamb barbacoa, is considerably more accessible. Rubbed for days in a mulato chile paste aromatic with canella and charred onion, smoked over cherrywood, then baked six hours inside banana leaves over chickpeas, it’s a Mexican cousin to the legendary lamb shoulder at Zahav, where he once worked. It’s very much worthy of the legacy – sublimely tender on the bone over refried beans and plancha-seared nopales strips, with a soulful lamb and chickpea consommé on the side.
Two Bells – Very Good